May 23 - Monticello

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We struck out at about 9:30 for Monticello, just outside Charlottesville.  When we got there, we were surprised to find a dozen or more tour buses and many dozens of cars already in the parking lot -- this was apparently a very popular spot.  We had heard little about Mr. Jefferson in Williamsburg, aside from comments that, although he was a brilliant and learned man, and an especially gifted writer, he was not reported to be much of a public speaker, being rather shy and having a high squeaky voice.

We started our acquaintance with this great man by touring his restored gardens.  He was quite a botanist, and grew more than a dozen varieties of peas alone.  His vegetable garden was 1000 feet long and 80 feet wide, running east-west and so exposed to optimal sunshine.  Monticello is perched on an 800 foot tall hill, well away from a major river -- quite unusual for the time, since rivers were the highways of the 18th century.  However, the views were sweeping and peaceful.  I think he chose wisely.

Jefferson personally designed every aspect of Monticello, having studied European architectural styles and influences during his 5 years in France, just after the American Revolutionary war.  He had the small brick gazebo below built at the center of his gardens.  It was a favorite spot of his to read, of which he did a quite a lot.  His library contained books in 7 languages, and counted thousands of volumes.  It was so vast that, when the fledgling Federal Library burned down, he donated his entire collection, which was the beginning of the Library of Congress.

We were forbidden from taking pictures inside the house, but it was amazing, reflecting the tastes and influences on this very brilliant man.  He loved gadgetry, and had many unusual ones in his home, often self designed, including a wine bottle dumb waiter concealed in the side of a fireplace, a 7-day calendar clock that marked off the day, hour, minute and second, a revolving shelved door for food delivery, and many other innovations for the time.  The house itself is actually rather modest in size, compared to the plantation mansions of his peers.

We came away with a large and very genuine respect for this man, our 3rd president and author of the Declaration of Independence -- indeed, an awe.  He minutely planned nearly everything he did, including his own epitaph, which reads: "Here was buried Thomas Jefferson, Author of the Declaration of American Independence, Of the Statute of Virginia for Religious Freedom, and Father of the University of Virginia".  No mention of his presidency, which he  apparently regarded as lots of hard work.

May 24 to 29 - Shenandoah