April 27 - Fontana Village
During our one full day on this side of the Smokies, we wanted to take a day
hike somewhere, partly to warm up for our pending backpacking trip. Deep within the center of the park a former pioneer
settlement called Cades Cove was established in a wide and flat valley.
Many of the old cabins and other structures from the 18th and 19th centuries are
preserved there today, and one could drive to them. Indeed, we learned
that during peak times, more than 8400 cars per day drove to them.
Apparently most folk who visit the Smokies don't even get out of their car (or
perhaps ever even leave Gatlinburg). Our chosen day hike was about half
way around the Cades Cove Loop, and we wanted to see the old cabins as well.
The first cabin we explored belonged to the first white settler to this
region, one John Oliver. This was Jody's grandfather's name, so we were
intrigued. We knew very little about him, but thought that perhaps they
could have been related.

Jordan shows off the Oliver cabin. The construction was very simple,
but it was still in good condition. If the wall chinks were refilled with
mud -- a normal part of log cabin maintenance -- it could be lived in
today. Pretty remarkable for a hand-made home nearly 200 years old.
As my friend Rob would say, 'they built for stout'.

Below is John and Lurena Oliver's gravestone. All of these Olivers
seemed to be buried in the Primitive Baptist Church cemetery. The
Primitive Baptists eschewed missions, and split in the early 19th century.

The cabins and churches and equipment we saw were all open for us to walk
through. Most of them were unfurnished and restored in authentic ways.
Some of the buildings had volunteers interpreting the history of the Cove and
the people who lived there 150 years ago.

This was the view from many of the homesteads. It was absolutely gorgeous.
These next two pics are of Elijah Oliver's home. Notice the dog run in
the middle of the house. The room on the left was added as a place for
"strangers" to stay over. The log cabins were chinked with mud and the
chimneys were made of stone.

There was a 5 mile hike to a place called Anna Ruby Falls that we wanted to
go to. The "foot log" we crossed here was the first of many creek
crossings over the next few days. The hike to the Falls was perfect: there were
beautiful wildflowers, colorful insects and wonderfully smelling trees.
There were butterflies everywhere. Jody was breaking in her new hiking
shoes (which did very well, by the way). The mild April weather was ideal,
too.
The Smokies are a place of incomparable beauty (more about that later).

Here we are at the falls, after an easy 5 mile walk. Jordan chose to
boycott this photo, so all we have is the Nike ad on her back to look at.

The Falls were a lovely place to have lunch. The water was still pretty
cold. We found lots of frog spawn and more butterflies and lichen and more
wildflowers.
Several of the barns in the valley were 'cantilevered', which was very
efficient in that it provided additional covered areas for livestock or wagons
to shelter from the elements without the expense and labor required to build
more walls. In the picture below, you can't get a good look at the
cantilever style, bur at least a general impression.

Cades cove had gobs of wildlife. Jordan saw some 40-odd deer, 2 wild
turkeys, and numerous other birds. One fearless deer grazed just off the
roadway, and let me drive by and take this picture.

Jordan took this shot of Ma and Pa Thomas just a settin' on the porch.

Another cantilevered barn shot (a different barn, though). Jordan can
be seen up in the hayloft.

Jordan demonstrates proper rein technique on the very small buggy we found in
the barn. We wondered what such a small wagon could have been used for,
aside from simply riding in.

April 27 - Fontana Village